Dr. Quentin Emerson became interested in Wagyu cattle about 10 years ago and now has a very successful breeding program on his farm near Owensville, Indiana. “We actually started raising Wagyu 6 years ago, but I’d been doing research on this breed for several years before that,” he says.
Chef Jeremiah Galey has within the last year taken up leadership of the kitchens at both the Hornet’s Nest in McCutchanville and the Haub Haus steakhouse in Haubstadt. In both places, the old menu favorites have stayed comfortably in place while Galey unleashes his creativity on a smattering of new items and a whole slew of ever-changing, meaty specials.
Those of us who are interested in culinary and fine dining, or work around cattle, or even those who just like a good steak, may have heard the words Wagyu or Kobe creeping into the vocabulary recently. Over the last 15 years, starting out west, the Wagyu breed of cattle has been gaining popularity and it’s heading east. Angus watch out, because Wagyu has made a case for top-of-the-line, most tender and flavorful steak.
Larry West’s little black book isn’t full of women’s phone numbers, the married engineer-turned-cattle-foreman is well past needing something like that, but his book does track a series of what a person could call “hook-ups,” and his list of “begetting” could rival the Bible’s as he tracks the bloodlines of Wagyu cows and calves.